LEMFÖRDER FAQ: Torque Struts, CV Axle Repair Kits, Trailer Brake Kits, and Clutch Plate Orientation

I'm the guy who orders aftermarket parts for a small fleet and keeps a list of the ways I've screwed up. If you're searching for LEMFÖRDER parts, or you're trying to figure out whether a CV axle repair kit will save you, this article is for you. It's the FAQ I wish I'd had when I started in this work.

• What is the LEMFÖRDER engine torque strut 3C0199855J?
• How do I use the LEMFÖRDER catalogue without an OE part number?
• What should I check before buying a trailer electric brake kit?
• When is a CV axle repair kit enough?
• Which side of the clutch plate goes toward the flywheel?
• One thing nobody warns you about: torque strut bolt torque sequence

1. What is the LEMFÖRDER engine torque strut 3C0199855J?

A torque strut does not hold the engine's weight. I thought it did for a long time. It controls the twisting movement of the engine and transmission under acceleration and braking. The LEMFÖRDER engine torque strut 3C0199855J is an OE-grade replacement for a group of VW applications. I have fitted it on Passat and Golf variants, but I'd have to check the catalogue before telling you exactly which engine codes. I want to say it covers a lot of 2.0T cars, but don't quote me on that. Use your VIN.

The reason I always tell people to double-check: I ordered thirty of these struts by car model, not by VIN range. The part number was right for the platform, but the vehicle generation was different. Half of them did not fit. That was roughly $1,400 down the drain and a very awkward conversation with the workshop manager. Now the catalogue is open before I click buy, not after.

2. How do I use the LEMFÖRDER catalogue without an OE part number?

When I first started, I assumed the LEMFÖRDER catalogue was only useful if I already had an OE reference. That assumption was wrong. You can search by vehicle model, engine code, or VIN. If you have a VIN, use it. If you have an OE part number, even better. The catalogue shows the LEMFÖRDER number, OE cross-reference, superseded part numbers, and sometimes an installation drawing.

I also use it when a customer brings in a number that has been superseded. One search shows the replacement instead of hoping a forum post from 2019 is still accurate. It is basically the difference between guessing and ordering with confidence. As of January 2025, the online catalogue is free and it's still the first tab I open.

3. What should I check before buying a trailer electric brake kit?

A trailer electric brake kit looks simple until you are wiring it at 6 p.m. on a Friday. Before you order, know the axle rating, drum size and hub bore, and what brake controller you have in the tow vehicle. If the kit includes a 7-way wiring harness, check the pin configuration before you cut anything.

Most wiring problems in this area are bad grounds, not bad magnets. I once installed a kit and assumed the frame was a good ground. It was not. The trailer brakes did almost nothing until I ran a dedicated ground wire back to the harness. Twenty minutes of work, but I felt like an amateur. Now I check grounds before I check anything else.

4. When is a CV axle repair kit enough?

If the boot is torn and you caught it early, a CV axle repair kit is enough. You replace the boot, clean and re-grease the joint, and the axle keeps working. If the axle clicks when you turn, the joint is already worn. A boot kit will not fix that. You need a complete axle.

The mistake I keep warning people about: the right kit for the car is not always the right kit for the joint. I once ordered ten CV axle repair kits by vehicle model only. They were the wrong inner joint type—tripod versus ball. That cost about $400 in restocking fees and a weekend of downtime. Actually, probably closer to $500 once I added expedited shipping for the correct kits. Now I always check the joint type on the old boot or use the catalogue's OE reference.

5. Which side of the clutch plate goes toward the flywheel?

Look for a marking first. Most clutch discs are stamped 'flywheel side' or 'gearbox side.' If not, the general rule is that the raised damper/spring side faces the pressure plate and the flatter side faces the flywheel. But do not rely on 'general.' I have opened clutch kits where the disc was not marked clearly and the correct side was not obvious.

What saved me once was comparing the new plate to the old one side by side. The flat side became obvious once I saw the wear pattern. If you are still not sure, stop and check the OE or LEMFÖRDER catalogue. Installing that plate backwards means the clutch will not disengage, and you will be dropping the gearbox again. I did that on a 2017 job. It is not a fun way to spend a weekend.

6. One thing nobody warns you about: torque strut bolt torque sequence

Even if you buy the right LEMFÖRDER engine torque strut, you can still wreck it during installation. The bushing sits in a metal sleeve. If you tighten the through-bolt while the engine or subframe is hanging in the wrong position, the bushing is pre-loaded and will fail early.

So I always bolt everything up loosely, lower the engine or subframe to normal ride height, and then torque the bolts to the spec in the catalogue. That little step has saved me from repeat comebacks more times than I can count. It's the kind of detail that does not show up on a fitment page, but it makes all the difference.